Getting in Touch with the Masculine Side
By Jeffrey Kent
Originally published in ASCP's Skin Deep, February/March 2006. Copyright 2006. Associated Skin Care Professionals. All rights reserved.
It's the age of the new urban man, the metrosexual, the ultra-GQ male. Whatever you want to call him, today's man is more in tune with style, grooming, and proper skin and body care. This translates to big business for estheticians who are flexible enough to adapt to the sensibilities of the men's market.
According to the NPD Group, a global sales and marketing information firm, sales of men's skin products jumped 13 percent in 2004. That's more than twice the increase seen in women's products. NPD data also shows a dramatic 22-percent upswing in sales of men's antiaging items. MenEssentials.com, a vendor of male-specific skin and hair care products, reports that men make up roughly 35 percent of dayspa-goers and just less than half of all resort, destination, and cruise line spa customers. That's a spike of more than 300 percent from figures collected less than a decade ago.
These statistics tell a tale of potential when it comes to the men's skin care market. The problem is, many skin care professionals are missing the boat entirely. The same MenEssentials.com survey indicates that only about two-thirds of North American spas offer men's services, while a mere 12 percent employ male-specific products.
"The men's market is growing in leaps and bounds," says James Whittall, president of MenEssentials.com. "You can either come to it late or embrace it early and grow with it. Embracing it means certain changes to the way you market and the way you perform your services. The upside is that guys who like the experience and the results will come back. They will be monogamous to your business."
Manon Pilon, international director of education for Physiodermie Methode and author of the book The Anti-Aging Cure (IQ Press, January 2006), agrees that men are a results-oriented group. If you can enact positive changes, they will return.
"To get good results, you have to start with education," Pilon says. "But keep it simple. As estheticians, a lot of us concentrate on all the steps involved in proper skin care. However, something that is too complex may discourage men who are new to the field."
Pilon suggests that estheticians begin with a consultation to determine their male clients' level of understanding. For example, if a man is using harsh soaps to clean his face, don't start by talking about mud masking and advanced home facial techniques. Instead, advocate a proper cleanser that will help balance the pH of his skin. Then, advance from there.
Estheticians interested in the men's market also need to ensure they are making the experience comfortable for male clients. This starts with catering specifically to their needs, not casually repackaging women's products and services as "also for men."
"Most guys are knowledgeable enough to realize that a lot of men's products are just repackaged women's products," Whittall explains. "Guys are simply not going to be comfortable putting women's products on their faces. Think about it from the viewpoint of a man who is going to an esthetician for the first time. Maybe he's not so sure about it, and then you strap him in a chair and slather him with heavy, oily, perfumed products. You're probably not going to see that customer again."
Whittall says that estheticians need to create a male-specific service menu. Putting "Men Welcome" at the bottom of your women's menu is not going to cut it. He also suggests setting up a retail area for men's products, specifically shaving-related items.
Other suggestions include making the overall look of the establishment more gender neutral, and ensuring the little details are taken care of, so men don't feel out of place: Have men's magazines in the waiting room. Buy robes big enough to fit men. Make sure massage and treatment tables are long enough so men's feet aren't dangling off the end.
Of course, you can make the experience as comfortable as possible, but ultimately you need to produce results. God knows, men have their own set of issues -- skin care issues, that is -- and it helps to be aware of some of the basics before attempting to treat them.
Men's Issues
Razor Burn. The root of most razor burn is pseudofolliculitis, or ingrown hairs. A mild facial scrub used before and after shaving can help remove ingrown hairs from the upper layer of skin. Estheticians should recommend proper home shaving techniques and promote shave creams with high concentrations of aloe vera, glycerin, and vitamins E and B5. After shaving, the application of a pH-balancing, vaso-constrictive facial balm will help prevent shave-sharpened hairs from growing back into open pores.
Wrinkles. Exfoliation and microdermabrasion are key weapons in the fight against wrinkles. So, too, are moisturizer creams and firming solutions. Pilon warns that when suggesting a product, estheticians should shy away from the common perception that all men have the same thick, oily skin. Yes, because of shaving, men's skin tends to be thicker and tougher than women's. However, there are still many variations, and each client needs to be evaluated individually.
Acne. Men typically exhibit more hormonal activity than their female counterparts, releasing androgen, which affects the sebaceous glands. Estheticians should try to regulate the sebaceous activity. Suggest reductions of red meat, shellfish, and forms of yeast, including sugar and chocolate. Also recommend limiting frequent weight lifting. This exercise increases testosterone levels, which stimulate the sebaceous gland.
Rosacea. Because of their larger sebaceous and sweat glands, men tend to be inundated by more of the demodex folliculorum mite, which promotes rosacea. Make sure skin pH is always around 5.5 acidic. If the man plays a lot of sports, advise cleansing and pH balancing after each activity.
Eczema. Moderate the parasympathetic nervous system. Put simply, control stress. Oral supplements, vitamin B complexes, calming baths, aromatherapy, yoga, mediation, massage -- all of these will help.
Manicures. "This is big business," Pilon says. "Men will book a manicure, a pedicure, or a massage before they would ever try a facial." Pilon recommends keeping it simple and not using polish. Make the man's nails neat and trim, but not too fancy.
Foot Treatments. Men's feet can take a brutal beating. Pounding from sports and general neglect lead to cracked, aching feet. Try salves and special foot creams to heal cracked skin. Pedicures and foot massages are the next step. Make their feet feel and look better, and the men will come back routinely.
Jeffrey Kent is a Denver-based freelance writer whose work has appeared in American PHOTO, Adventure Sports, Professional Photographer, and several others.
It's the age of the new urban man, the metrosexual, the ultra-GQ male. Whatever you want to call him, today's man is more in tune with style, grooming, and proper skin and body care. This translates to big business for estheticians who are flexible enough to adapt to the sensibilities of the men's market.
According to the NPD Group, a global sales and marketing information firm, sales of men's skin products jumped 13 percent in 2004. That's more than twice the increase seen in women's products. NPD data also shows a dramatic 22-percent upswing in sales of men's antiaging items. MenEssentials.com, a vendor of male-specific skin and hair care products, reports that men make up roughly 35 percent of dayspa-goers and just less than half of all resort, destination, and cruise line spa customers. That's a spike of more than 300 percent from figures collected less than a decade ago.
These statistics tell a tale of potential when it comes to the men's skin care market. The problem is, many skin care professionals are missing the boat entirely. The same MenEssentials.com survey indicates that only about two-thirds of North American spas offer men's services, while a mere 12 percent employ male-specific products.
"The men's market is growing in leaps and bounds," says James Whittall, president of MenEssentials.com. "You can either come to it late or embrace it early and grow with it. Embracing it means certain changes to the way you market and the way you perform your services. The upside is that guys who like the experience and the results will come back. They will be monogamous to your business."
Manon Pilon, international director of education for Physiodermie Methode and author of the book The Anti-Aging Cure (IQ Press, January 2006), agrees that men are a results-oriented group. If you can enact positive changes, they will return.
"To get good results, you have to start with education," Pilon says. "But keep it simple. As estheticians, a lot of us concentrate on all the steps involved in proper skin care. However, something that is too complex may discourage men who are new to the field."
Pilon suggests that estheticians begin with a consultation to determine their male clients' level of understanding. For example, if a man is using harsh soaps to clean his face, don't start by talking about mud masking and advanced home facial techniques. Instead, advocate a proper cleanser that will help balance the pH of his skin. Then, advance from there.
Estheticians interested in the men's market also need to ensure they are making the experience comfortable for male clients. This starts with catering specifically to their needs, not casually repackaging women's products and services as "also for men."
"Most guys are knowledgeable enough to realize that a lot of men's products are just repackaged women's products," Whittall explains. "Guys are simply not going to be comfortable putting women's products on their faces. Think about it from the viewpoint of a man who is going to an esthetician for the first time. Maybe he's not so sure about it, and then you strap him in a chair and slather him with heavy, oily, perfumed products. You're probably not going to see that customer again."
Whittall says that estheticians need to create a male-specific service menu. Putting "Men Welcome" at the bottom of your women's menu is not going to cut it. He also suggests setting up a retail area for men's products, specifically shaving-related items.
Other suggestions include making the overall look of the establishment more gender neutral, and ensuring the little details are taken care of, so men don't feel out of place: Have men's magazines in the waiting room. Buy robes big enough to fit men. Make sure massage and treatment tables are long enough so men's feet aren't dangling off the end.
Of course, you can make the experience as comfortable as possible, but ultimately you need to produce results. God knows, men have their own set of issues -- skin care issues, that is -- and it helps to be aware of some of the basics before attempting to treat them.
Men's Issues
Razor Burn. The root of most razor burn is pseudofolliculitis, or ingrown hairs. A mild facial scrub used before and after shaving can help remove ingrown hairs from the upper layer of skin. Estheticians should recommend proper home shaving techniques and promote shave creams with high concentrations of aloe vera, glycerin, and vitamins E and B5. After shaving, the application of a pH-balancing, vaso-constrictive facial balm will help prevent shave-sharpened hairs from growing back into open pores.
Wrinkles. Exfoliation and microdermabrasion are key weapons in the fight against wrinkles. So, too, are moisturizer creams and firming solutions. Pilon warns that when suggesting a product, estheticians should shy away from the common perception that all men have the same thick, oily skin. Yes, because of shaving, men's skin tends to be thicker and tougher than women's. However, there are still many variations, and each client needs to be evaluated individually.
Acne. Men typically exhibit more hormonal activity than their female counterparts, releasing androgen, which affects the sebaceous glands. Estheticians should try to regulate the sebaceous activity. Suggest reductions of red meat, shellfish, and forms of yeast, including sugar and chocolate. Also recommend limiting frequent weight lifting. This exercise increases testosterone levels, which stimulate the sebaceous gland.
Rosacea. Because of their larger sebaceous and sweat glands, men tend to be inundated by more of the demodex folliculorum mite, which promotes rosacea. Make sure skin pH is always around 5.5 acidic. If the man plays a lot of sports, advise cleansing and pH balancing after each activity.
Eczema. Moderate the parasympathetic nervous system. Put simply, control stress. Oral supplements, vitamin B complexes, calming baths, aromatherapy, yoga, mediation, massage -- all of these will help.
Manicures. "This is big business," Pilon says. "Men will book a manicure, a pedicure, or a massage before they would ever try a facial." Pilon recommends keeping it simple and not using polish. Make the man's nails neat and trim, but not too fancy.
Foot Treatments. Men's feet can take a brutal beating. Pounding from sports and general neglect lead to cracked, aching feet. Try salves and special foot creams to heal cracked skin. Pedicures and foot massages are the next step. Make their feet feel and look better, and the men will come back routinely.
Jeffrey Kent is a Denver-based freelance writer whose work has appeared in American PHOTO, Adventure Sports, Professional Photographer, and several others.
