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The Art of Retailing
The Right and Wrong Ways to Sell Your Wares

By Monica Schuloff Smith

Originally published in ASCP's Skin Deep, September/October 2008. Copyright 2008. Associated Skin Care Professionals. All rights reserved.

Just because esthetics professionals create beauty and balance for skin does not mean they can easily create attractive displays and gift baskets. For a lucky few, it does come naturally, but the vast majority of esthetics professionals struggle when it's time for seasonal and promotional display changes, or when arranging
gift baskets.

"Retail merchandising and marketing is an art that takes skill, practice, and creativity," says Larry Oskin, president of Marketing Solutions, Inc. of Fairfax, Virginia. Oskin suggests visiting major department stores to get ideas from the displays at cosmetic counters.

According to Noreen Young, educator, author, makeup studio owner, and online mail-order beauty business owner, professionals need look no further than the places they shop. Even billboards and magazines can offer inspiration.

"When retailing in any skin care clinic, spa, or medical spa, it is very important to develop a crisp, clean, and visually stimulating display," says Christie Citsay, spa director of Vito Mazza Salon, Spa & Hair Restoration of Woodbridge, New Jersey. "If you have a theme, follow it all the way through. It is important to mix things up a little bit to give it a fresh feel, even if that means just moving items from the bottom shelf to the top."

Merchandising is important because of its profitability--it's an investment and service guarantee and helps with client retention, says Lisa Marie Arnold of Salon & Spa Solutions, who estimates that 68 percent of clients have never been given a proper retail recommendation, while $2.6 billion is spent per year on body, hair, nail, and skin care products sold out of the salon or spa. "Keep your displays attractive and changing every six to eight weeks at a minimum. Clients want change and get bored if they don't see it. Keep that client always wanting to come back to see what's new," she says.

Visual stimulation is a very big part of retailing, so displays, baskets, and floor arrangements should be attention-getting, inviting, and colorful.

"Eye level is buy level," says Margaret Haley, owner of My Derma Clinic Day Spa in Pinecrest, Florida. "We want retail areas to be approachable, so we don't put things behind glass. We want our clients to touch, feel, and play with product."

Keith West-Harrison, CEO at Spa Enrichment Strategies in Santa Fe, New Mexico, says clients are "secretly begging to be led." While packaging and display are important, they are just one part of the whole retail plan, as most spa sales will come from a professional recommendation or advice from staff. "Clients really don't know what they want or need," West-Harrison says. "We just have to teach the staff how to fulfill these needs with a day of client psychology training and role-playing. That usually means at least a 300 percent increase in the retail sales at that location."


Everything Has Its Place
Regardless of your style, your displays, retail areas, and gift baskets must be accessible, have good lighting, and be placed in high-traffic areas. Oskin advises spa owners to use "mass with class." Point-of-purchase (POP) signage should be used to inform clients, but he warns that it should look professionaland enticing.

"Make sure there is a price on the signage, not necessarily on the products. Most people are afraid to ask, 'How much does this cost?' for fear of being embarrassed if the price may be too high," Oskin says. "Put out enough products, so your clients will know they can pick up and pay for skin care products, while not ruining the theme of your displays."

Arnold encourages owners to have a product placement system. Generally, all products from the same manufacturer should be placed together and all products in the same category should be placed together. Place two to three of the same product across theshelf, three or six deep. Shelf ends should be reserved for prominent product or sale items. West-Harrison agrees and adds that having a system allows staff members to easily locate the right skin type product.

"In the spa world, we need to think more like a Pier 1 Imports or Pottery Barn. Row after row of products gets very boring. You must mix up your merchandising techniques," West-Harrison says. He suggests your visually appealing displays include attractions for the other senses. For example, if you have a vitamin C skin care line, place a bowl of citrus fruits next to the display. You can do this with any of your lines that feature organic ingredients.

"When using objects and decorative display items, keep it simple," Young says. "Think feathers, gemstones, rocks, fruit and veggies, rice, antiques--whatever ties in with what you have to offer for the season."
In addition to product placement, lighting can make or break an area. According to Arnold, light attracts four times the attention of unlighted areas, and spotlights, moving light, and color work well. In addition, light should be adjusted every time you change a display.

"Fortunately, there really are no bad or really wrong ways to merchandise retail programs, as long as you creatively merchandise your products, baskets, and displays. The only wrong way is to do nothing at all, expecting your clients to magically buy products that are still hidden in your back room or stored away in boxes. Put it all out there," Oskin says.

Haley prefers to hold some product back, rotating every week, so she has something new on the shelves.
"You can go too far. You want to put a lot out on the shelves, but you don't want to overdo it. You have to go with your instincts--it's easy to go too far," Haley says. Her solution is to ask her sister-in-law, who has an eye for design, to come review her displays, floor space, and baskets.


Accessible Products and Information
Citsay feels that professional retail display areas should tell a story. "Whether it be a boutique, skin care line, or hairstyling products, you should always display the complete product systems, lines, or themes together, so your client will easily be able to visualize what they need and to purchase them together," she says. Citsay adds one of the worst things you can do is make products inaccessible to clients because you'll lose their interest.

"If they can't steal it, they can't buy it," Haley says. "If they can touch it, chances are they're going to buy it." She notes that shelf-talkers, which are signs or tags that focus a customer's attention on the product, work well in product play areas.

"Shelf-talkers are like having a little salesperson near the product. They are as important as good lighting and making the retail accessible," Haley says, but West-Harrison goes further.

"I have all of my affiliated spas dedicate one person to being a retail relations manager, West-Harrison says. "That designated person is responsible for being in the retail area to help educate clients while just answering questions and making recommendations. It is the only way spas can win back the sales from the competitive department store counters."

Haley places her nail stations directly in her retail area to make good use of her floor space and, at the same time, offer clients getting pedicures and manicures something to look at. "The manicurist has a captive audience and is there to answer retail questions, but not push," says Haley, whose retail center features baby shower baskets, handbags, hostess gifts, and jewelry.

"I go to the gift trade shows and look for unusual things that complement the spa, such as sandals and handbags," Haley says. "If a client has a pedicure she'll want to show it off with sandals. But when you get into things like shoes, you'll need to stock several sizes. I would warn against overextending yourself unless your clientele can support it. The great thing about accessories like jewelry is that they are usually one size fits all."


Baskets and Packaging
The biggest trend with baskets is less, West-Harrison says. "Less boxes, less plastic over-wrap, and more use of sustainable materials."

Oskin says owners should try to incorporate some earth-friendly packaging and a smart way to do this is to include a special eco-friendly tote bag imprinted with your business logo.

"Going green is an ongoing process that salons and spas should definitely try to get into," Citsay says. "It is important to do right by our environment, yet it is an ongoing process you would have to take slow steps into. At our Vito Mazza Salon & Spa, we do use some recycled packaging."

Haley says there are natural materials available to make attractive presentations. She found her baskets online. "I have learned how to do baskets myself," Haley says. "We use sinamay baskets--woven mesh with wire framing--and they look organic and natural."

Young says packaging "overdoes" and is not planet-friendly. She suggests looking for products with less paper, cardboard, and plastic to get in sync with the greening trend.

Gift baskets can be custom-made right at your facility with creative baskets and bags that can be found easily these days, Arnold says. "The key is to understand your inventory turnover rates and move slow movers, sometimes even at cost, to keep from having your money tied up on the shelf," she says. "These kinds of products are great for filling baskets for sales. Baskets should be available to target holidays: Mother's Day, Valentine's Day, and the December holidays. Have them premade and make it easy for clients, especially men, to shop."

It is best to have a mixture of some generic baskets and some seasonal retail displays to sell your beauty care wares, gift certificates, products, and services, says Oskin, who also suggests you place baskets in your spa at least two months prior to any holiday. You never know if a client will need a baby shower, bridal, or hostess gift, so you should always have some retail baskets and displays that will meet everyone's needs in between the big gift-giving seasons. This way you'll never miss a potential sale.

Monica Schuloff Smith is a Miami-based freelance writer, editor, and industry consultant, and is the former editor in chief of Les Nouvelles Esthtiques & Spa. She has authored hundreds of articles related to the skin care and spa industries. Smith is serving her second governor-appointed term as a member of the Florida Board of Cosmetology. She can be reached at aldsmith@bellsouth.net.




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