Parabens and Preservatives
Untangling myth and fact
By Janet McCormick
Originally published in Skin Deep, January/February 2009. Copyright 2009. Associated Skin Care Professionals. All right reserved.
Many consumers and professionals believe chemicals are bad, and that natural is always good for you. The fact is everything in the world is chemical. There are many chemicals on the no-no list--and some justifiably so. Parabens are at the top of many lists. Parabens, which in the skin care and food industries are used to prevent product spoilage and decomposition, are classified as preservatives.
The role of preservatives in products, even those we eat, is very important. Products containing water will spoil and become less than optimal, or even dangerous, because of microbial growth. That's the reality. For that reason, estheticians preferring products that legitimately contain no preservatives should mix them up in their kitchens and immediately throw the leftover product away after use. Why mix your own? Because packaged products with no preservatives would have to be used very quickly because of their short shelf lives.
"Hearing all the hype about 'all natural,' one of our managers purchased a line that was truly preservative-free just before I took over choosing the products," says Linda Orsuto, spa director for 800 West in Marlton, New Jersey. "The products smelled wonderful and may have been effective, but within a few weeks, they had spoiled on the shelves and clients were bringing them back saying they smelled bad."
Costs would rise for everyone to have preservative-free products because of wasted product, the need for refrigeration, and packaging of product in smaller containers. It would also require more time for consumers and professionals both to monitor products for spoilage.
Without preservatives in products, manufacturers and professionals run the risk of being the root cause of bacterial infections and allergic reactions to molds and fungi. Many experts believe these risks are more dangerous than the preservatives. For that reason, there are preservatives of some kind in all products.
All-Natural Preservatives
To address the demands of concerned consumers, some manufacturers have turned to natural preservatives. Many combine botanicals, herbal extracts, and natural preservative systems to reduce deterioration of ingredients.
"It's a topic of hot discussion," says Lokesh Jain, a chemist for manufacturer Allure Cosmetic in Hayward, California. "Marketing companies don't like parabens. For that reason, the industry has come up with a few safe paraben-free preservative systems."
These ingredients are combined with antioxidants like tocopherol and ascorbyl palmitate for better shelf life, Jain says.
Many natural preservatives, however, are irritating, the nonallergenic properties of parabens were an attractive feature in their development.
The Truth
Most of the drive to ban parabens is based on a 2004 paper published in The Journal of Applied Toxicology-- "Concentrations of Parabens in Human Breast Tumors" by Dr. Phillipa Darbre, a professor of biomolecular sciences at the University of Reading in England. In the study, tissue samples from breast cancer patients were tested and compared to samples from noncancerous patients.
The hypothesis of the study was that no parabens would be found in the noncancerous tissue but would be found in cancerous tissues. Instead, parabens were found in the noncancerous tissue samples. To explain the findings, the research team concluded that paraben-containing soaps used in lab equipment had contaminated noncancerous samples. Amazingly, however, they did not consider that the cancerous tissue samples (examined in the same lab) had been contaminated in the same way. Other problems were found with the study as insufficient data was gathered from both sets of patients.
-The sample size was very small: 10-20 cancerous samples and 10 noncancerous samples.
-Information was not gathered on the ages, lifestyles of participants, and stages of cancer, or frequency and type of parabens (food or cosmetic).
-The type of study (case-controlled) has many disadvantages in gathering reliable results.
After the study, a storm of sensational press stories were blasted to consumers and the "chemicals-are-all-bad" groups jumped to conclusions. Parabens quickly became known as seriously detrimental chemicals--killing people--supported only by results of this study. Other scientists did not adopt the test results as they sought to understand the study's validity and reliability. Soon, the paraben researchers were on the defensive, answering questions about their testing methods. They said they were not pointing to parabens in cosmetics as a cause for breast cancer and maintained such a conclusion was outside the scope of the study.
Several important studies followed Darbre's small study. For example, in September 2004, the Danish Institute of Food and Veterinary Research issued the report Parabens in Food, Cosmetics, and Consumers. The study elaborated on the suggested relationship between the use of parabens and breast cancer and came to the conclusion that there is no relationship.
Another study, conducted by the European Union Commission of Health and Safety, also concluded there was no relationship between parabens and breast cancer. Parabens have been
approved for use in cosmetics by very strict and conservative
panels, such as the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, the European Commission, the Japanese Ministry of Health, Labour and
Welfare, and other key regulatory bodies around the world.
Hormone Mimicking
Parabens have been found to be estrogen-mimicking in their effects and this is cited as a concern of paraben detractors. However, a legitimate study found that same estrogen 100,000 times weaker than our natural estrogen (estradiol), and that the parabens tested were at a dose 25,000 times higher than encountered in cosmetic products. That makes parabens 2.5 billion times weaker than estradiol, the estrogen it mimics.
Parabens and other estrogen-mimicking chemicals are everywhere. For example, lavender is said to be estrogen-mimicking, as is soy, both produce high amounts of estrogen-like chemicals. Many of us use them precisely because of their estrogen-mimicking effects. Many foods and supplements also do this. Even our bodies produce phytoestrogens that keep us healthy and vital.
After All is Said
Would I recommend bringing products with parabens into your spa? No, I would not. But not because parabens are nasty killers--they are being studied exhaustively and reliable studies have yet to prove them deadly. I would not choose a line with parabens because the public (and many professionals) have fallen victim to the media-perpetuated impression of that first study, which scientists view as faulty. For this reason, I feel if you want to sell products and perform services at an optimum income level, you must select products formulated without parabens. I also suggest you do not lecture your clients. Pick your battles--this should not be one of them. You'll be battling sensationalistic websites. My philosophy is: I can't lick 'em, join 'em. It's an easy choice since the manufacturers I love have replaced parabens in their products for the same reasons.
Understand, also, that many companies in this industry are using that one study as the basis for their marketing by putting cancer fears into the minds of consumers. Legitimate studies have proven these fears unfounded, and I suggest you wonder about a company using that approach. Consistently seek the truth. It will make you stronger in your profession and more successful in your career.
Janet McCormick is an esthetician, manicurist, and former salon owner and spa director. She holds a master's degree in allied health management, as well as a Comite International D'Esthetique Et De Cosmetologie (CIDESCO) diploma. She has written more than 300 articles and is owner of Spa Techniques Consulting. She can be reached at 863-273-9134 or janmccormk@aol.com.
Many consumers and professionals believe chemicals are bad, and that natural is always good for you. The fact is everything in the world is chemical. There are many chemicals on the no-no list--and some justifiably so. Parabens are at the top of many lists. Parabens, which in the skin care and food industries are used to prevent product spoilage and decomposition, are classified as preservatives.
The role of preservatives in products, even those we eat, is very important. Products containing water will spoil and become less than optimal, or even dangerous, because of microbial growth. That's the reality. For that reason, estheticians preferring products that legitimately contain no preservatives should mix them up in their kitchens and immediately throw the leftover product away after use. Why mix your own? Because packaged products with no preservatives would have to be used very quickly because of their short shelf lives.
"Hearing all the hype about 'all natural,' one of our managers purchased a line that was truly preservative-free just before I took over choosing the products," says Linda Orsuto, spa director for 800 West in Marlton, New Jersey. "The products smelled wonderful and may have been effective, but within a few weeks, they had spoiled on the shelves and clients were bringing them back saying they smelled bad."
Costs would rise for everyone to have preservative-free products because of wasted product, the need for refrigeration, and packaging of product in smaller containers. It would also require more time for consumers and professionals both to monitor products for spoilage.
Without preservatives in products, manufacturers and professionals run the risk of being the root cause of bacterial infections and allergic reactions to molds and fungi. Many experts believe these risks are more dangerous than the preservatives. For that reason, there are preservatives of some kind in all products.
All-Natural Preservatives
To address the demands of concerned consumers, some manufacturers have turned to natural preservatives. Many combine botanicals, herbal extracts, and natural preservative systems to reduce deterioration of ingredients.
"It's a topic of hot discussion," says Lokesh Jain, a chemist for manufacturer Allure Cosmetic in Hayward, California. "Marketing companies don't like parabens. For that reason, the industry has come up with a few safe paraben-free preservative systems."
These ingredients are combined with antioxidants like tocopherol and ascorbyl palmitate for better shelf life, Jain says.
Many natural preservatives, however, are irritating, the nonallergenic properties of parabens were an attractive feature in their development.
The Truth
Most of the drive to ban parabens is based on a 2004 paper published in The Journal of Applied Toxicology-- "Concentrations of Parabens in Human Breast Tumors" by Dr. Phillipa Darbre, a professor of biomolecular sciences at the University of Reading in England. In the study, tissue samples from breast cancer patients were tested and compared to samples from noncancerous patients.
The hypothesis of the study was that no parabens would be found in the noncancerous tissue but would be found in cancerous tissues. Instead, parabens were found in the noncancerous tissue samples. To explain the findings, the research team concluded that paraben-containing soaps used in lab equipment had contaminated noncancerous samples. Amazingly, however, they did not consider that the cancerous tissue samples (examined in the same lab) had been contaminated in the same way. Other problems were found with the study as insufficient data was gathered from both sets of patients.
-The sample size was very small: 10-20 cancerous samples and 10 noncancerous samples.
-Information was not gathered on the ages, lifestyles of participants, and stages of cancer, or frequency and type of parabens (food or cosmetic).
-The type of study (case-controlled) has many disadvantages in gathering reliable results.
After the study, a storm of sensational press stories were blasted to consumers and the "chemicals-are-all-bad" groups jumped to conclusions. Parabens quickly became known as seriously detrimental chemicals--killing people--supported only by results of this study. Other scientists did not adopt the test results as they sought to understand the study's validity and reliability. Soon, the paraben researchers were on the defensive, answering questions about their testing methods. They said they were not pointing to parabens in cosmetics as a cause for breast cancer and maintained such a conclusion was outside the scope of the study.
Several important studies followed Darbre's small study. For example, in September 2004, the Danish Institute of Food and Veterinary Research issued the report Parabens in Food, Cosmetics, and Consumers. The study elaborated on the suggested relationship between the use of parabens and breast cancer and came to the conclusion that there is no relationship.
Another study, conducted by the European Union Commission of Health and Safety, also concluded there was no relationship between parabens and breast cancer. Parabens have been
approved for use in cosmetics by very strict and conservative
panels, such as the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, the European Commission, the Japanese Ministry of Health, Labour and
Welfare, and other key regulatory bodies around the world.
Hormone Mimicking
Parabens have been found to be estrogen-mimicking in their effects and this is cited as a concern of paraben detractors. However, a legitimate study found that same estrogen 100,000 times weaker than our natural estrogen (estradiol), and that the parabens tested were at a dose 25,000 times higher than encountered in cosmetic products. That makes parabens 2.5 billion times weaker than estradiol, the estrogen it mimics.
Parabens and other estrogen-mimicking chemicals are everywhere. For example, lavender is said to be estrogen-mimicking, as is soy, both produce high amounts of estrogen-like chemicals. Many of us use them precisely because of their estrogen-mimicking effects. Many foods and supplements also do this. Even our bodies produce phytoestrogens that keep us healthy and vital.
After All is Said
Would I recommend bringing products with parabens into your spa? No, I would not. But not because parabens are nasty killers--they are being studied exhaustively and reliable studies have yet to prove them deadly. I would not choose a line with parabens because the public (and many professionals) have fallen victim to the media-perpetuated impression of that first study, which scientists view as faulty. For this reason, I feel if you want to sell products and perform services at an optimum income level, you must select products formulated without parabens. I also suggest you do not lecture your clients. Pick your battles--this should not be one of them. You'll be battling sensationalistic websites. My philosophy is: I can't lick 'em, join 'em. It's an easy choice since the manufacturers I love have replaced parabens in their products for the same reasons.
Understand, also, that many companies in this industry are using that one study as the basis for their marketing by putting cancer fears into the minds of consumers. Legitimate studies have proven these fears unfounded, and I suggest you wonder about a company using that approach. Consistently seek the truth. It will make you stronger in your profession and more successful in your career.
Janet McCormick is an esthetician, manicurist, and former salon owner and spa director. She holds a master's degree in allied health management, as well as a Comite International D'Esthetique Et De Cosmetologie (CIDESCO) diploma. She has written more than 300 articles and is owner of Spa Techniques Consulting. She can be reached at 863-273-9134 or janmccormk@aol.com.
